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Things I Would Do in Saigon Again— And Others, Maybe Not

Saigon is one of those cities that gets under your skin. It’s chaotic, beautiful, historically layered, and culinarily extraordinary. We had a wonderful trip, but like any honest traveler, I’ll tell you what I’d do again in a heartbeat — and what I’d happily skip next time.

Since we were just there this past week, I wanted to share it for my Sunday Faves with Annie and Cindy.

Before You Go: Read This Book

Before anything else: do yourself a favor and read Vietnam: A History of the War by Russell Freedman. It’s clear, accessible, and beautifully illustrated — and it transformed how we experienced everything we saw. Understanding Vietnam’s long struggle for independence and the full arc of the war (it’s called “The American War” there) gave us so much more context for the sites, the people, and the city itself.

Even though Saigon’s name was changed to Ho Chi Minh City after the war…the locals still call it Saigon (which came from “town in forest”).

Where to Stay: The Park Hyatt Saigon

We stayed at the Park Hyatt Saigon and would choose it again without hesitation. The interiors are lovely — the kind of elegant, Indochine spaces that feel timeless.

The outdoor pool is large and beautifully landscaped, a genuine respite from the heat. But the real standout?

Breakfast. The buffet is extraordinary, exotic tropical fruit, extensive pastries, eggs however you wish. It goes on and on — and you can customize your own bowl of pho. Who knew I would want soup with a flavorful broth every morning (like the locals). Also, the iced Vietnamese coffee from the hotel was among the best we had in the city. A word of warning: it is strong. One is enough. Or even a half of one.

Yes: Book a Private Historical Tour Through the Hotel

The concierge team at the Park Hyatt can arrange a private historical tour of the city, and we’re so glad we did it. It covered sites and stories we never would have found on our own, and with the context from the Freedman book already in mind, the whole experience was genuinely moving.

Rooms from the Independence Palace (left intact after the fall of Saigon in 1975).

Dinner at Cloud Nine

Cloud Nine is perched on the upper floors of the La Siesta Premium Saigon hotel with floor-to-ceiling windows and 360-degree views across the rooftops and Saigon River. We celebrated Howard and Mona’s birthdays here — the ambiance is classically styled with an Indochina feel, the views are breathtaking, and a piano player played beautiful oldies. It made for a memorable evening.

Before dinner, we had drinks in the Park Hyatt’s cool bar…those that drink them, loved the martinis.

The Motorcycle Food Tour: A Once-in-a-Lifetime Yes

Book the motorcycle street food tour through GetYourGuide — ours was led by a wonderful group of young women, and it was one of the highlights of the trip. Is it slightly nerve-wracking to hop on the back of a motorbike and plunge into Saigon traffic? Yes. But I got over it half way in.

They take you into neighborhoods you’d never discover on foot, and the food stops are authentic and delicious.

One piece of advice: pace yourself. By the final stop, we were almost too full to fully appreciate it. Go slowly, share portions, and save room for the end (ours was coconut ice cream served in the shell with more shaved fresh coconut).

A Neighborhood Worth Discovering: Thao Dien

We had dinner at our niece, Katie and her husband, Carlo’s home in the Thao Dien neighborhood and were so charmed by it that we came back the next day for shopping. It’s the kind of leafy, design-forward district that feels like a different city from the frenetic energy of District 1 — boutiques, ceramics studios, rattan finds, and quiet cafés tucked into gardens.

A shop I particularly loved: dakaoq (Dakao Quartier), a beautifully curated homeware and lifestyle brand founded by a Vietnamese-American artist/architect. Their concept store is at 83 Xuan Thuy in the Thao Dien area, and there’s a flagship on Dong Khoi Street as well. I came home with some pretty pieces.

A Note on Wine and CheeseMAD Wine Bar & Eatery

Katie took us to a charming wine bar that’s worth seeking out — lovely cheese, fresh bread, and charcuterie, well-priced and relaxed. If you order from the bottle list, the selection is extensive. The perfect pause mid-afternoon.

Massages

For massages, Norah Spa has multiple District 1 locations and is an excellent value. One tip: stop in early in the day to make your appointment in person, as their online booking can be a bit clunky.

What to Wear For The Weather

Breathable…I lived in linen and cotton the whole trip and comfortable shoes are necessary. And drink water constantly. I basically wore my hair in a pony tail while out everyday, too.

What I’d Skip

Ben Thanh Market — It was stifling. The heat inside is oppressive, and the goods skew toward mass-produced souvenirs and knock-offs of not very good quality. There are lots of aggressive salespeople. I understand why it’s on every list, but we wouldn’t go back.

The Apartment Café — Every guide recommends this one, and I wanted to love it. But between the heat and the crowds, it was a bit of a disappointment. We only found one shop we truly liked with inexpensive ($5 or $6) crocheted bags that were sweet.

Our niece’s husband made a good point: people go for the “coffee experience” of browsing the old apartment floors, but the coffee itself can be better elsewhere.

A Word About the Weather

May in Saigon is hot. We knew going in that it would be like August in Jacksonville, Florida. But then you don’t walk for miles sightseeing like we did in Saigon. We managed — but if you have flexibility in your timing, December or January are said to be more comfortable months to visit.

Would we go back to Saigon? Absolutely. There’s more to see, and now we know exactly where to spend our time.

Have you visited Ho Chi Minh City? I’d love to hear your favorite discoveries in the comments.

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Let’s see what my friends have discovered this week:

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25 Comments

  1. Mary Ann, What an adventure. You are so brave doing the food tour on the bike. Loved the Reel with it. I showed Max and he was impressed. Good to know about what to do or not. Those little bags were a find!
    I’m with you, I have a hard time with humidity. It sounds like Bora Bora which is so sweaty. I still would like to go. Thanks for your wonderful trip posts. Always so good.
    Oh and loved the dresses and the sandals! The top outfit was darling too. x

  2. Mary Ann! I would love to go with your recommendations. The motorbike tour, especially sounds amazing, and maybe a little scary! Love that Sézane dress! Those little bags look like the French ones! How cute that you got Louisa a pink one! She’ll love it! (Saw that in the comments).
    xx

  3. Looks like you had a wonderful trip. I would love to travel to Vietnam. We have a local bakery and they make the BEST bahn mi. I remember helping my son with a school project when he was about 11 on Vietnam – like a travel guide. I found it fascinating and he received an A+ for it.

  4. MA! What a fun recap of your adventures. Loved watching your IG video on the back of the bike. Looks like you packed perfectly. I can’t imagine the heat and humidity, but you managed to look crispy and cool. Your Sezane eyelet dress is perfection … same with their woven bag. What an incredible experience to have with family. xo

  5. I was there in early March, 2024, off of a ship on a world cruise and it was very hot then too. Because we were using the ship as our hotel, each day for 3 days we had to make the drive from the port into the city. I was so amazed to see no traces from the Vietnam Nam war and how reconstructed it is. The most fun I had was being ridden around in a little cart by a man on a bicycle. We wove in and out of the traffic with only inches to spare so I had to be very trusting!

  6. Hi Mary Ann

    Can you tell me about the little white shirt from Gerard Darel…what size did you go with?
    Thanks,
    Cindy

  7. I was surprised about your going in May, but figured you had good scheduling reasons to do so. What a wonderful trip: I hope to visit in the future, along with Singapore and Thailand.
    One of our best food memories is of a French-Vietnamese restaurant in Falls Church, VA from the late 80’s-early 90’s (when we were first married): some of the most delicious food we’ve ever enjoyed. Do you still find Vietnamese cuisine that incorporates some French influence?
    Did you seek out custom clothing? I hope to hear about it!

    1. That was a good time for the kids with an extra day off for Memorial Day. There seem to be lots of French influences like the baguette sandwiches (Bahn Mi).

  8. I travel vicariously with you, Annie, Cindy and Jennifer! I can almost feel the heat and humidity in Saigon! You dressed appropriately for it and always looked cool and comfortable in your photos. My parents lived in Tampa and I have been there in summer. I’m from dry desert mountains of Colorado and really struggled with the humidity in Florida in my younger years.

    1. But you also have the cold, Sydney. I’m not crazy about humidity. My skin is softer…but that it ALL.

  9. Francesca B says:

    Hello Mary Ann,
    What an incredible experience thanks for sharing. I have travelled with my son in law many times and I love the “still new” exciting dynamic of our extended family. Gorgeous pictures!! I hope Mona bought those cute bags! Love your Sezane dress; how perfect is it for summer, might have to get that! Take care xo

  10. Your trip looked interesting, nice to travel and visit with family. Vietnam has never been a country I thought about visiting. I could be jaded as my friend is from there and talks of the severe heat and humidity. Great pictures!

    1. There is air conditioning though. Did your friend have it? Still she is right about it being hot.

  11. I’ve never had a desire to visit here, but after reading your post, I’m adding it to our bucket list. Your outfits looked spot on for the weather. You have the best trip posts! Wonderful memories for all of you. So nice to be able to travel with your son and DIL and meet up with relatives there too.

  12. We’re you able to order custom made shirts or other clothing there? Can you share that experience and what shop you used? Thanks!

  13. Julie Traxler says:

    We are going to Vietnam and Cambodia in October. I bought the book you mentioned. Sounds like a great trip.

  14. We did a long SE Asia trip, Singapore, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia and Hong Kong and left in January. The weather in Jan/Feb was glorious. I would highly recommend, esp to experience festivities leading up to their Lunar New Year. It was incredible for weeks and weeks.

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